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[從觀光客變背包客的印度行2]My first time to be a backpacker in India_ Ahmedabad&Jaipur

his job

隔天我們先造訪Dada Hari Vav古井,那是前人取水休憩的地方,如今水乾了,連遊客都沒有。附近有一個小清真寺,只有一個打掃的老人,指引我們哪裡可以參觀。在印度有名景點很難不遇到人—推銷紀念品的、要錢的、問要不要導覽的,這個冷清的地方自然在腦海中留下深刻印象。

Next morning, we visited Dada Hari Vav first. This step-well has steps down through five levels of carved stone columns to two small wells. Now the wells are often dry and we two are the only visitors. Behind the step-well, there is a small Mosque. An old man was sweeping dust while introducing us where to go. In famous sights, we were always around by people, like peddlers, beggars, tourist guides. As a result, these two infamous sights leave somewhat deep impression on me.



When we backed to downtown trying to figure out the map, a tourist guide with a Europe backpacker came to us. The guide invited us to join them. I accepted it, even though he didn’t mention about the fee. We followed him to visit several Mosques. He was a considerable guide always telling us when we should take off shoes and wear the muslin. His English introduction was full of interesting stories, although it’s hard for me to remember. I enjoyed the interaction with him. However, when we came to his home for lunch, he started to persuade me some other tours. The tours are not attracted us at all, so we paid him 200RB and left immediately.

Dancing Platform




Besides the mosques, the busy traffic near the railway station also impressed me. Cars wouldn’t slow down for us at all. Every time we tried to pass, I felt like passing the battlefield. The information in the railway station is unclear for us. After many requests, we finally figured out the reservation center is outside. Before boarding, we still asked several times to check the right platform.

We booked 2AC tickets to Jaipur. Beds are clean and comfortable with unexpected good meals. After enjoying the ice cream dessert, Diky shared his photos of South East Asia he visited before India. He also shared some minority music with me. When arriving Jaipur, we still slept soundly. Fortunately, a staff reminded us to get off.


對Jaipur的初印象是「怎麼連路燈都沒有」,抵達民宿後才知道是印度大停電,AC房很悶熱,老闆很隨性竟然說你們可以先睡走道上,等電來了再進房間… 於是我們只好選擇通風好但貴一點的房間,睡到自然醒,先前往Amber Fort,因為那裡11:00前有大象計程車,其實路程不長只是一種新奇(只有外國觀光客會搭),但二個人都沒坐過大象,還是付了那奢侈的900RB。抵達Amber Fort還要門票,所以我們只有意興闌珊地在門口拍照。「不如到對面免費的長城吧!」那裡也可以遠眺Amber Fort!

Our first impression of Jaipur is somewhat undeveloped because there are even no street lights. When we got to B&B, the host told us there is a shortage of electricity in this area. The AC room we want was stuffy. The host said we could sleep on the aisle outside waiting electricity. We didn’t accept this solution and changed to another good ventilated but more expensive room.

Next morning, we visit Amber Fort first, since the guide book said there is a elephant riding service only before 11:00. A riding charges 900RB for taking tourists from the bottom to the Amber Fort located on the hillside.Although it is a little bit expensive, we still paid since it seemed special. The driver lent us his colorful headdress for photographing and then asked another 100 RB. We didn’t entry the Amber Fort since it charged another hundreds and then headed to the opposite Great Wall.


長城的石階步距很大,竟讓常爬山的我走得氣喘如牛,不難想像這裡為什麼沒有觀光客。最後一次休息後Diky說「要做強悍的中國人」就一口氣衝上去了。頂端的展望很好,不僅能看到Amber Fort,映入眼簾的還有一個漂亮的藍色城市(雖然Jaipur號稱粉紅城市,但我覺得藍色城市比較夢幻)。當我們正想享用午餐時,一群孩子上來了,一開始他們只是想拍照,聊幾句熱絡些後再合照時每個都想抱或親,一開始覺得還好,但後來他們會趁你不注意時亂摸,那感覺就不太對了。我們想離開,他們開始要錢,只好把午餐送他們,但吃完後他們仍一路追隨,讓人不得不用強勢的口氣說STOP…

The Wall and Blue City

Going up the Wall is really a hardship. Even I often go hiking in Taiwan, I still kept panting while climbing. That’s why there were no other tourists on the top of the Wall, even if the view was great. We not only saw Amber Fort but also a beautiful blue city. (Although the old city of Jaipur is famous for its pink façade, I prefer this blue one.)


When we thought of having lunch here, some local teenagers showed up. After chatting a while, they asked for picturing together with kisses or hugs. In the beginning, I thought it was ok since they were just kids. However, their behaviors were more and more impolite. When we said we must leave, they begged for some money. Even though we have given them our lunch, they still followed us down. Last, we had no other choice but yelled “STOP”!!

Hawa Mahal

我們的民宿在舊市區Hawa Mahal附近,街道上充滿小吃攤,但像樣的餐廳卻要走好久才有。於是隔天早上專程前往新市區的MacDonald,在那裡我們遇到此行惟一的台灣背包客,他們很熱心地告訴我們許多資訊,「你不要以為德里是首都就好到哪裡去…」讓本來要以那為此行最終站的我打消念頭。另外有位中國人說接近中午就有一班到Agra的火車,我們無意在Jaipur多待,立刻起身趕火車…

Our B&B was near famous Hawa Mahal in the old city. There are many food stalls but just few good restaurants. We walked a long time for our dinner. Maybe that’s why we head to MacDonald next morning, even if we seldom eat hamburgers in our own country.

We met a Taiwanese couple there, they shared a lot of information about north India. ”Do not put too much expectation to the capital Delhi. It is not much better than other India city.” As a result, I changed my mind to end my India journey in Varanasi instead of Delhi. Another Chinese backpacker told us there is a train to Agra at midday, so we decided to give up our evening tickets and left immediately to catch this train…


[後記 Postcript]


When we booked the ticket to Agra, we were in the long waiting raw. We got two abnormal cheap tickets for only 174RB. It is “Sleeper Class” with three-tier bunks and no AC. As a result, when we knew it’s possible to leave earlier, we gave up the tickets with no hesitation.

pretend that we are a couple


Although Diky and I are similar in some aspects, we still have many differences. For example, since he is a professional photographer, he prefers to find good photo spots by himself and has no interest in the introduction by tourist guide. I think we should seize the daytime to visit more sights as possible, but sometimes he just wanted to use wifi in the hostel. Maybe that’s why we separate one day in Agra…