第六次上志佳陽，和法國背包客my 6th hiking on Jhihjiayang trail with a French backpacker
上山前一天，也是這學期的最後一天，下班時順道到羅東車站接Arnaud，宜蘭很少有外國觀光客，於是他一出現我就認出了他。Arnaud給我的第一印象是超級瘦，雖然在台灣待10天行李卻和他一樣「精實」。 他抵達宜蘭的那天，幾乎沒下雨卻非常冷。到家後稍微介紹此次山行，就帶他到附近走走，他說我住的地方很寧靜山很美，我說有陽光或山嵐時的景色會更美!他依然拿出相機拍了不少照片。 晚餐時第一次見識到法國人吃東西的「優雅」，Arnaud每吃一口似乎都要停頓一下才接著下一口，他的話不多，假如我不開口，他幾乎不講話。我想大概是他的英文帶著法國腔，不過有了上次接待荷蘭背包客的經驗，我不再計較自己的英文如何，盡量想到話題就打開話匣子。 Arnaud說宜蘭實在冷得不可思議，為什麼屋內沒有暖氣？因為我們這裡的冷頂多1-2個月，「穿多一點+吃多一點」就是應變方法。雖然很想帶他去礁溪泡溫泉，但有車的朋友們剛好都沒空，於是只好請他早點睡，隔天一大早我們還得步行30分鐘去搭往登山口(環山部落)的公車。
I took Arnaud home from Lodong train station near my school. There are very few foreign tourists in Yilan, so it’s easy to find him. My first impression of Arnaud is how slim he is! Although he spent ten days in Taiwan, his backpack seemed really lightweight. We walked around my living community after that, he said the atmosphere here was so tranquil because of the mountains around. I told him that the scenery would change depending on the weather. It’s not only delightful in blue sky but also in rainy mist.
There was almost no rain but really cold, Arnaud was curious about why no heaters at home. My answer is that since it might be cold for about two months at most, we would wear and eat more to keep warm. When we had our dinner, Arnaud ate very elegantly; he seemed to chew his food very well before swallowing. However, he seldom talked even after finishing his meal. Maybe he was shy about his English with French tone. I thought that he was just like me when I encountered Holland backpacker whose English was fluent. I remembered my closed attitude of not chatting too much annoyed him. As a result, I decided to do my best to start topics.
【直上瓢簞山屋 head to Piaodan Hut 】
我們一路步行至司界蘭溪登山口，進行最後的整裝及每人背上2公升過夜水，開始一路陡上的山路。 因為錯估天氣(本來以為會很冷結果竟然熱得像夏天)，加上第一次在冬天使用外帳，過多的衣物讓我的背包比預期沉重，走沒多久Arnaud就超前我許多。既然他不在身邊，每次休息時我就索性躺在步道軟軟的松針上看風景。 有次他刻意等我，問我是否需要協助，我將背包裡的2公升水給他(他二話不說地接受，當下真感動)。這讓我想到第一次走此路線上雪山時，小黑也幫我背過水(也是難忘的感恩)，但是上一次帶Lewis走時，他走得比我慢又累，我有幫他背東西嗎？實在回想不起來…
賽良久營地是上次來紮營的地點，我很想在那兒多躺一會兒，回想和Lewis在此共渡的美好時光，但太陽快下山了，小坐一會就得離開…邊走邊欣賞日落，抵達山屋時已有一群山友在裡面，雖然他們沒申請，但我懶得和他們多說，立刻前往山屋附近的小山頭搭外帳。 再次在3年前和小強紮營的舊地，用同一塊外帳獨自紮營，非常有意義，晚餐後除了能欣賞環山部落夜景及美麗的星空，還能回味這座山帶給我的許多珍貴回憶。 晚上的風很強，但有外帳及露宿袋的保護，不用刻意多穿衣服，就睡得很溫暖!
Next day we woke up in the early morning and walked about 30 minutes to the bus stop near here. Before arriving to Huanshan Tribe where the trailhead is, the bus had a break in Nanshan tribe. I went to the restroom and let Arnaud alone. He was soon around by aboriginal locals. They praised Arnaud’s good appearance and asked for having photos with him. Arnaud seemed very delighted in their warmth. After taking off the bus, Arnaud started to take photos of aboriginal statues along the road in Huanshan Tribe. Those statues never caught my attention since I’ve met several similar ones in Taiwan. However, when I stopped with Arnaud, I started to appreciate them.
We had to pack 2 liters of clean water each from river near trailhead, since Piaodan hut is usually out of water. The trail was quite steep in the beginning and the sun shined as it was summer. I packed too many clothes this time for it’s my first time using tarp in the cold winter. As a result, I could only climb in a very slow pace. Arnaud was far ahead of me, but he finally helped me carry my 2 liters water. That let me recall a friend who did the same thing as him. I thanked them a lot, but have I ever done this kind of favor to the one I loved? I tried to recall but failed…
When I rested, I often lied down directly on the soft ground which was filled with pine leaves. As a result, I took several pictures of the sky and trees from the ground this time. I saw the sunset on my last 1km. When I arrived, there were already some people gathering in the hut. I could ask them to leave since they didn’t apply for that night stay in advance, but I just headed to the hill top nearby to set up my tarp. I’ve ever camped in the same place in 2009 with a dear friend. Using the same tarp in the same place was meaningful to me. Besides, it’s convenient for enjoying the night view of Huanshan Tribe. Even though the wind blew hard at night, my tarp and bivy bag kept me warm until next morning.
【悠閒的日出及日光浴時光 Sunrise and Sunbathing 】
The sunrise began around 6am. Although there are no glorious clouds around the sun, the glittering light on the grass impressed me. I took several pictures of my tarp, the mountain and Arnaud under the light. Maybe our encounter is just like this amazing light which sustained only few seconds, but it will stay in my memory for a long time.
The weather was great, so I recommend Arnaud for climbing to the Mt. Syue which is the second highest peak in Taiwan if his condition is good. He said since it’s his first time to pack so much water to hike in such a steep trail, he preferred to just walked around Mt. Jhihjiayang. At last, we had sunbathing facing the south side of Mt. Syue near Mt. Jhihjiayang for at last one hour.
Many people chose to climb this mountain in a day. They started walking in the early morning and arrived the peak near noon. After taking some pictures, they would hurry to 6k campsite to have a great meal. For me, taking time in the mountain area is more important. However, I still thanked them for giving us some fruit and water when we met in the same rest site. After that, we went down without rest and bypassed many hikers in a light pack. Arnaud said in France it’s common to walk in this pace but not common to have food from others.
When we arrived one hostel near trailhead, Arnaud caught attentions of aboriginal locals again! They even invited us to their hostel. After we were in, the host shared his wine with us and then turned on his Karaoke to sing several songs. It’s a new experience for Arnaud, so he took a short video of them. On the contrary, I had several similar experiences in aboriginal tribes, so I took no record this time. However, I think every encounter is unique after home, maybe I should still record next time.
【意外的廟裡過夜及與中學生對話 Overnight in a temple and Chat with a student 】
雖然明知下午沒有下山的公車，依然在路邊嘗試攔便車，因為我曾多次用這方法成功下山(順便交朋友)，但因為開始攔車的時間偏晚，車子本來就比較少，要往宜蘭的車更少。一旁店家的原住民勸我們不妨到附近最便宜的住宿點──環清宮(300元/人)，隔天一早再搭公車下山，好心的原住民於是載我們前往… 當接待人員開立收據給我們時，Arnaud立刻說要保留它當「紀念品」，因為他來在台北參觀許多廟宇，覺得台灣的廟很有美感，沒想到廟裡還有提供住宿。我說雖然很多廟都有住宿服務，但品質不一，很幸運的是這裡的房間很乾淨，洗澡水很熱，給我們很好的休息。最後一晚，Arnaud終於肯開金口──邊展示邊說明他相機裡的台灣回憶。 回到內城，這兩天伴隨著我們的冬陽依舊，走著走著遇到以前教過的優秀學生，雖然高一的他英文不算好，卻很努力用僅有的單字和Arnaud交談，構思問題時也不害羞地直盯著Arnaud看，他的舉動在我們看來實在很可愛，因為他的加入，讓我拍到Arnaud此行笑容最燦爛的一張照片。
We got to the main road near Huanshan tribe at 5pm. I knew there is no bus but I’ve successfully hitchhiked several times here. Maybe the time was a little bit late, so there are only few cars pass. We tried our best until 6pm but still failed. An aboriginal local recommended us overnight in the temple nearby and taking bus next morning. He finally took us to the temple for free! After paying for one room, Arnaud asked for keeping the receipt as his souvenir. He visited many temples in Taiwan and never thought about an overnight in one of it. A temple with some overnight rooms is common in the Island, but the service quality here is above average. The room is clean and the bathing water is hot enough providing us very good rest. It’s our last night of this hiking; Arnaud finally shared more stories about his Taiwan trip with the pictures he took.
Next morning, we took the same bus back to Neicheng. We met an outstanding student (Neil) I’ve taught here. Although his English was not good enough, he still tried his best to use the words he had to communicate with Arnaud. When he thought about what to say, he stared at Arnaud without shyness. Instead of thinking him as impolite, Arnaud chatted with him happily, so I had a chance to see his most brilliant smile in this trip.
【後記 Postcript 】
雖然這是我第六次上志佳陽，卻是第一次帶外國友人爬山，我很享受交流彼此健行經驗、文化差異的過程，也託他的福，受到不少人好客的招待。Arnaud曾問 我同一座山去那麼多次不會無聊嗎？對我而言，同一條路線在不同季節、和不同旅伴的體驗就大不相同；每次爬山帶著過去的一點回憶，建立新的回憶，感覺更豐 富。雖然這次在陡峻的山徑上曾累到想說不要再上來了，但在志佳陽作日光浴時，又看到一些不錯的紮營點，下次輕量化作更好些，直上志佳陽紮營看雪山日出應該 很不錯！
This is my 6th hiking to Mt. Jhihjiayang, but it’s my first time taking a foreign backpacker to the mountain in Taiwan. I enjoyed the process we exchanged our hiking experiences and different cultures. Taiwanese is so hospitable to foreigners that I also got some benefits because of accompanying Arnaud. Visiting the same mountain is not boring at all to me for the experience will be unique with different travel mate and in different season. Although I inevitably thought not to visit this steep trail anymore, when I found some nice camp sites near the peak, I still wanted to visit here next time with better lightweight plan!
I prefer climbing Mt. Suye from Jhihjiayang trail. There is various scenery along the way and it’s not crowded as many popular trails in Taiwan. Although it is very steep and not suitable for some weak people, many friends who have visited here said it seemed to be easy to climb other mountains after having Mt. Jhihjiayang.