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紫色奇幻之冒險體驗筆記
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2013我在希臘Corfu島6天(I stayed in Corfu for 6 days in 2013)

After having a good time with my Thai hosts for 8 days, my first city in Europe is Istanbul. I took bus from Turkey to Greece and stayed in Edrine, Xanthi, Tessaloniki before visiting my last stop in Greece, Corfu. Although I appreciated majestic mosques and churches, there were some frustrations while traveling in these two countries. On one hand, most residents can’t or are not used to speak English at all. It was troublesome when I took transportation. For example, I have twice passed my original station and took off the bus in the incorrect terminal. On the other hand, many strangers tried to flirt to me while I wondered alone on the street. One time, a man even held my hands directly. I originally hoped to move to another country soon to see whether it would be better, so I gave up visiting Greece capital, Athen and headed to Igoumenitsa directly. If I wanted to get cheaper tickets, I had to wait for couples days there. However, there is nothing special near this transportation port. My Tessaloniki host highly recommended me to visit the nearest island, Corfu, given that he had spent his vacation there several times. As a result, I took boat from Igoumenitsa to Corfu on 27th July.

說真的,我對希臘的小島不是沒動心過。在希臘首站Xanthi就詢問host有沒有非觀光較自然的小島,他推薦Samothraki,但若要去的話我得坐巴士先前往Istanbul的方向的Alexandroupoli,再從那裡搭船,雖然Samothraki的照片真的很誘人,但我的行程時間有限,為它走回頭路的意願不大。再來,待在Xanthi的最後一天,host帶我到附近的海邊Magana beach游泳,那是我第一次在歐洲的海岸游泳,海水非常澄淨,水溫溫暖,最令我驚訝的是海中的淺灘區延伸很廣,可悠游好遠腳仍踩得到軟沙,儼然是天然游泳池!但當時我和host共用一個蛙鏡,玩得有點意猶未境。因此,當我有機會造訪Corfu島時心想「也好」…

無標題

Actually, I had thought about visiting a Greece island which is more natural. My Xanthi host has recommended me Samothraki near Alexandroupoli. However, I was not willing to take bus back to Alexandroupoli in the direction to Istanbul and left that island next time. My host took me to Magana beach in my last Xanthi day. I was impressed by that ocean, for it was just like natural swimming pool. People could swim far away from the seashore and still touched the soft sand ground. Besides, the water was so clean and warm that I’ve never met a similar one in Taiwan. I thought I could meet similar environment in Corfu, so I headed to it delightfully.

無標題

從Igoumenitsa前往Corfu的船上心情有點緊張,船上其他的遊客都是至少2人同遊,一副渡假的樣子,像我這樣行單影隻且背著大背包,大概找不到第二個,當然,我也是全船唯一的亞洲人…。一下船正在路上邊走邊看住宿點時,突然有台車在身旁停下,一個中年男子下來攀談,原來他是hostel的經營者,他說他的hostel一晚才20歐元,雖然位置離市中心有點遠,但他有接送服務,問我要不要去看看,我想剛才看的hotel一晚至少都50歐元,於是上了他的車。上車後那老闆說亞洲遊客在島上較少見,我們很有緣,然後讚美我長得很漂亮(通常對話出現這種句子時就是搭訕的開始),他蠻喜歡我的(這台詞怎麼從土耳其延續到希臘呢?),然後他提議,假如我願意住在他的hostel前2晚共40歐,含代步登山單車一台,然後晚上他帶我去海邊游泳及吃晚餐。房間除了門鎖有點難開,院子裡其他住客在狂歡時聲音會傳進來,並沒有什麼問題空間也很大,加上他給的一些優惠,我就住下來了。那是我第一次晚上在海裡游泳,水溫出奇地溫暖,當晚還有很美的圓月,我很謝謝他帶我去游泳,但他在載我回hostel的車上就開始一直摸我的大腿,令我有點後悔接受他的所有offer,因為他的意圖實在很明顯…

I was still a little bit nervous on my way to Corfu, for I was the only Asian visitor who was alone with a big backpack. While walking around for a hotel, a man about 50 years old stopped his car beside me. He introduced himself as a hostel owner and the environment of his place. He offered me 40 Euro for two nights with some additional service, including lending me a mountain bike, a local dinner, and taking me to the night swim. Comparing to the hotels which I’ve asked, his price and offer was attractive, so I jumped to his car. It was my first time swimming in the sea at night. I enjoyed the warm water and the tranquility. However, after swimming the hostel boss touched me more aggressively. He even tried to persuade me to stay longer in his place and promised to offer me free stay. His intention was quite clear and I started to regret to accept his offers in the beginning.

met a painter in the gouvia bay

Next morning, I went around the island with the mountain bike. Although I like cycling very much, riding under the strong sunshine and high temperature is quite exhausting. I wanted to jump to the sea to swim but how could I leave the bike and my backpack on the seashore? I still had to keep riding. When I arrived Gouvia bay, I met an old man who was painting quietly alone. He told me he is a painter from Ireland and has visited Corfu several times. He rent an apartment and stayed for couple weeks. All he did everyday was choosing different spots for observing then drawing. The scenery of Gouvia bay is not so special in my eyes, but what in his painting attracted me a lot. I decided to learn drawing and do the same thing in the future from that time. I indeed participated in a drawing class after I went back to Taiwan. After one day cycling, I still had to ride up for about 10 miles to the hostel in the middle of the island. I finally decided not to do the same thing anymore and change another stay instead of the hostel with the weird boss.


good fishing place_2

隔天早上我騎著登山車開始環島,雖然我熱愛騎單車,但在白天的烈日下騎單車似乎不是很明智的選擇,雖然我也很想下海游泳,但單車及隨身背包怎麼辦?只好繼續向前騎。那天比較特別的經驗是在gouvia bay遇到一位寫生的老先生small,他是愛爾蘭的畫家,造訪corfu島多次,每次來就會租棟房子連待好幾週,每天在不同地點寫生。雖然gouvia bay較其他公路沿岸寧靜,但景致談不上特好,然而在small畫布上的gouvia bay非常迷人,讓我當下決定回台後要去學畫畫,未來旅行時也能用這樣方式和喜歡的地方對話。(*回台後我真的開始到社大上素描和色鉛筆!!)small建議我騎到山中的一個小鎮,他很喜歡那裡的氛圍,我也真的騎上去了,但在酷熱的天氣下騎山路真是累…下山後要回hostel又要再才騎約10公里的上坡,趕在9:00太陽下山前回到hostel,老闆前來敲門邀約游泳,一方面是真的很累,一方面我很清楚他的意圖,於是我不只婉拒他也告知隔天就要前往其他地方。

People said the most beautiful beaches of Corfu were in the west coast. I visited Glifada and then the other north two next day. The beaches are indeed not as crowd as the east coast, but they didn’t stretch as wide as I expected. Agios Gordis, the last one I visited, was also my favorite. I found an apartment which offered me 35 Euros for a night. The room was unexpected cozy with an outdoor balcony. I could enjoy the ocean scenery from my room and went swimming whenever I wanted since the beach was quite near. I paid for two nights at first and added one another after because it’s impossible to own this room in such a low price in Taiwan.

sunset with mist

hostel老闆曾和我推薦幾個美麗的海岸,但他總會加上那裡的旅館收費都很高,我先前往Glifada,果然都是中高級的villa,雖然那沙岸頗優美,遊客也不多,但腹地不大。於是我再徒步及搭車前往Glifada北邊的二個海岸,雖然有較便宜的住宿,但海邊的腹地都不夠大,最後我到了南邊一點的Agios Gordis,並問到一家願意給我一晚35歐的濱海hotel。房間出乎我意料地舒適,那是我此行睡過最舒適的彈簧床,還附有觀海陽台,在自己的房間就可以觀海聽浪,離開房間5分鐘內就可以下海游泳。說真的,若在台灣這樣的費用是不可能住到這種房間,於是原先只打算待2晚的我再多加一晚。

The map indicated that there is a long beach in the north of Agios Gordis. Even it was not flat sand beach as I imagined, I enjoyed walking through the rocky seashore. I saw a big island out of the seashore. It seemed reachable for there was a boat parking. I also found a pavilion with a thatched roof on my way. It settled well inside, that let me want to revisit for a longer stay next day. I took many great pictures of the big rocks on the seashore. I also saw two fishing men using a rock as shelter. I not only went out during the day time but also lay on the beach at night. I was quite satisfied with the breeze, the stars and the wave sound, even though I could still heard the loud music from the pub far away.

walk alone in the early morning

地圖上Agios Gordis以北是一大段沙灘,但實際去走是景致多變的岩岸,且似乎可以一直走。第一天比較特殊的發現是臨海的一個大島,旁邊停著船;一個搭建良好的茅草涼亭,許多美麗的礁石(包含天然的磯釣場)。雖然在海裡游泳不錯,但我很享受岩岸健行探索,清晨及日落前各走一次,晚上也一個人走到沙灘,找顆礁石躺下聽浪觀星。雖然還是會聽到遠方pub的歌舞聲,回味這單純在大自然探索的一天還是很滿足。

Next day, when I was on my way to the pavilion, I met a white man from South Africa. He said he traveled from Africa to here by canoe. However, he had lost his boat, so he planned to search this area as far as possible by walk and swim. When we arrived to the pavilion together, he informed me he would like to take out his only pants and jump to swim. After his leaving, I tried to swim nakedly as he. I hadn’t known that swimming nakedly is so great until that time. If the waves had not become high, I would have stayed in the water longer. After swimming, I continued to walk forward. Although the scenery was not so special, I was still fulfilled by overlooking the seashore from the last plateau.

無標題

隔天的計畫是到茅草涼亭那兒游泳,走在路上遇到一位南非白人,他說他是划海洋獨木舟來到歐洲的,昨天有游上我看到的那大島,大島上有個教堂(但從海邊看不到)。今天他打算一路往北走,遇到不能步行的地方就游泳前進,能走多遠就多遠。然後他說等下要把身上唯一穿著的褲子脫掉裸泳,請我不要介意,等他先走了之後,我也嘗試裸泳,原來裸泳的感覺那麼好,只是後來浪有點大,我就穿上衣服繼續向北步行探索。雖然再向北的景致並不很特別,但最後走到一個高點回首一路走來的岩岸也頗滿足! Corfu島的那六天算是我2013歐洲行的中間點,在那之前我都是在不同的沙發間流浪,好處是能和沙發主人進行文化交流,但多少要配合主人的作息(或說要看人家臉色),雖然在Corfu島是一個人,反而比較有「真正放鬆」的感覺。儘管偶而望著那舒適的雙人床還是會想有人陪在旁邊多好,但若真的如此,我可能不會有那麼多的時間在海邊漫步,然而,大自然是變化多端及百看不膩的,有一天傍晚起大霧的夕陽特別夢幻,風平浪靜和波濤洶湧的海是完全不同的風情。在台灣的海邊是年輕人的天堂,但在Corfu我見到不少老夫妻攜手戲水,而全裸日光浴甚至裸泳早就不見怪。Agios Gordis生活機能很好,我的冰箱充滿了水果和飲品,我最愛光顧大街上唯一的純手工麵包店(其鹹派及蛋糕便宜又可口),總是買回旅社在陽台上邊欣賞海景邊享用。

under sunset light

I felt really relaxed during the 6 days in Corfu, for I wondered in the nature by myself freely. I was always attracted by changes of nature. While some tourists complained about the mist, I thought the sunset was so special in that kind of weather. When the waves were so high that people were hardly swam in it, I still enjoyed walking on the seashore. I also spent a lot of great time in my balcony, like writing diary and postcards. I wrote one to my parents to suggest them considering a vacation in Corfu, for I saw many elder couples enjoy the sea together. Staying in Agios Gordis was quite convenient; my fridge was always full of fresh fruit and drink. My favorite store on the street was a handmade pastry store. I tried different pies and cakes during my days there. It is not said that I didn’t enjoy staying in different hosts’ places. I appreciate the chances of culture exchange, but I also need some days to get alone to relax.

無標題

在Corfu的最後一天搭船前往義大利前,我到島上的最南端找一個靜僻的沙灘,再裸泳一次。
Before taking the boat to Italy in the last day in Corfu, I found another remote beach to swim nakedly again!

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