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紫色奇幻之冒險體驗筆記
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2013我在法國健行16天(Mountain hiking in France for 16 days in 2013)

從大湖到彩色湖From Lake Geneva to small colorful lakes
我們的起點是日內瓦湖,打算沿GR5及附近的路一路往南。小強造訪過許多美麗的高山湖,因此我們常以湖泊為紮營地點首選。除了附近有畜牧牛羊的湖水會較濁,絕大部分的法國高山湖都很清澈,清澈到讓人想下去游泳(我們的確也這麼做),而只要是”漂亮”的高山湖,附近通常有付費山屋或停車場,一天來回或輕裝即可悠閒造訪。我喜歡的高山湖是幽靜、附近有美好的營地及壯觀的山勢,這次造訪的眾湖泊中” Lac de Pormenaz”是我的最愛,也許我們抵達時是雨天,湖邊僅有另一頂釣客的帳篷,隔天清晨雨停,我在湖畔邊泡腳邊欣賞山嵐環繞的景致,水溫相當適中,難怪有山友說在此游整個下午的泳(其他的多半很冷冽)。可惜高山警察出現提醒我們已經超過拔營時間(早上9點),不然我們還真想在這美麗的湖待久一點。

Lac de Pormenaz

Our trip started from Lake Geneva (Le Lac Léman) near Geneva. We planned to go along the GR5 and branch trails near the Alps area. We often choose lakes for overnight, since Jon has visited many beautiful ones in France. Most of them are very clear except some are near the grazed area. However, there are usually huts (called “refuges” in French) that charge a fee and/or parking lots near beautiful lakes. People usually plan a one day trip or only carry a small backpack to visit. We can only enjoy the tranquility of the lake in the evening or early morning. ” Lac de Pormenaz” is my favorite in this trip. There was only one another group of campers there when we arrived late afternoon on in a rainy day. Next morning when the weather got better, I laid my legs into the lake and enjoyed the clouds around the majestic cliff. The water was so warm; I could easily see why the guy I had met the day before said that he spent nearly half the day swimming there. I would have liked to do the same thing, but the police ruined that dream when they came to inform us that 9am is the deadline for breaking camp.

observe ducks and play with them!

另一個讓我印象深刻的湖是” Lac des Mines d'Or”(金礦湖),雖然一開始知道要在此湖過夜很失望,因為山屋和停車場就在湖邊,觀光客不少,湖看起來也很普通,然而在選營地時,我們發現環湖的某張椅子視野很好,小強於是提議把它暫時挪開當作營地,雖然這很「異想天開」(我們都沒做過這種事),雖然有可能遭取締,但這有點瘋狂的舉動,很振奮人心!雖然這個水草豐盛的湖沒人下去游泳,卻是小鴨的天堂,牠們常聚集在我們附近的一塊小草叢;更幸運的是營地附近還有個活水源。於是梳洗、觀察鴨子、觀察經過的人的反應,讓在湖邊紮營的時光很充實。沒有人前來取締,只有一對老夫妻經過時討論「這椅子擺放的位置好像不對」,然而這並不影響在外帳裡的我們的好心情。

cheer up!

”Lac des Mines d'Or” also quite impressed me. At beginning, I was a little bit depressed when Jon decided to camp there because of the active restaurant/hut and parking lot just beside the lake that attracted many tourists. While walking around, we found the best view of the lake was from a spectacular bench along the path and the bench was moveable. Jon therefore suggested moving it temporarily and setting our tent there. The act was somewhat crazy but exciting! We were so lucky that there is no one to expel us. Only an elderly couple strolling by our tent made some comments about how the bench, put off to the side, seemed weird. The lake, filled with an abundance of aquatic plants, was heaven for a flock of ducks. We enjoyed observing and feeding them some nuts. Although we didn’t swim or take a bath in Lac des Mines d'Or, we still did our wash in the small river near our camp site. We also enjoyed the scenery of sunset and sunrise of the lake. I think I will never forget that lake.

sunrise of the lake!

讓我們失望的湖也是有的…此行最後造訪的兩個湖因為附近就有牛、羊放牧(地圖上當然沒有標示),湖水不免被染成五顏六色,尤其最後一個在谷地中的湖,即使好天氣依然反潮嚴重,原定的行程提早一天結束,這個湖也是原因之一吧!

Not all lakes gave us good impression like the above two. The last two lakes we visited were quite near grazing area of cattle and sheep, for the map didn’t show this kind of information. The lakes are “colorful” because of excrement. The last one lake was not only near cattle but also quite humid even when the weather was fine. Camping there was quite awful. Maybe it’s one reason for ending our journey one day earlier finally.

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反觀台灣的高山湖,數量、面積、乾淨度都遠比不上法國的,但有些因為無現成的步道(例如南湖水鹿池)或路程遙遠艱難(例如七彩湖),較有遺世獨立的氛圍。記得2009年和小強在颱風後無人的嘉明湖,當時真希望可以不下山…

Compared with France, mountain lakes in Taiwan are not so clear and the quantity and area are much less. However, there are still many lakes which can’t be reached easily because of the transportation or undevelopment. I had some great experience to “own” a natural lake only by myself or with few friends for some days in Taiwan. I think it’s quite impossible in France in summer.

in the rainy day

罕見的大背包客 Few hikers with big backpacks in France
阿爾卑斯山的夏天很迷人,繁花盛開,雪水融化成充沛的乾淨水源,於是夏天的阿爾卑斯山很熱鬧,牧羊人帶著牛羊上來吃草,都市人上來進行各種戶外活動,這次我見識到的有:騎登山車、半裸跑步(這二種非常常見)、採藍莓、騎重型機車、開沙灘車、坐觀光直升機等;二千多公尺的高山儼然是人們容易親近的「後花園」,因為法國的山區開發得早,開車可輕易抵達至少一千多公尺處,加上高山纜車盛行、提供舒適食宿山屋很多,因此法國的登山客多半穿得很體面,背包很小,像我們這樣背著大背包連續走那麼多天的登山客幾乎遇不到。也許這也因為法國的山頭較險峻,許多無法登頂也很難連稜縱走,要從一個座山到另一座山往往得下到谷底再爬升,而谷地之間即使有公車,班次很少(且不一定天天有),長天數縱走實行上的確有其不便,雖然我們有些踢柏油路的痛苦經驗,但也攔到不少好心法國人的便車。然而,也因為山腳下都有小鎮,我們將16天的糧食分成3批,2批用郵寄的寄到目的山區的小鎮,減少背負重量。

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Alps in summer is quite attracting, given that there are plenty of clean melting water and blooming plants. Not only shepherd came to this area but also many outdoor lovers. Lots of activities took place in the mountain, such us cycling, jogging, gathering blueberries, riding motor bike, and even driving all-terrain vehicle or taking a tourist helicopter. People can easily drive to or take chair lifts to the trailhead and finish a hiking trip in one or two days. Therefore, heavy backpackers like us are quite rare. Because the ridges are often not connected, we had to go down to the village before climbing another mountain. Although there was public transportation between villages, it is still not very convenient. Sometimes we had to walk on asphalt road, but we still hitchhiked successfully several times. Besides, we separated our food into 2 bags and mailed to the post office near trailhead to keep our backpack as light as possible.

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雖然偶而我會羨慕那種豪華的登山型態,尤其在雨天時若能住在山屋享用法式料理多好,但想到山屋一人一晚要價50~60歐元(含早餐及熱水澡),又花不下手。其實此行我們的紮營處多半都比山屋座落點幽靜優美,還有很多的意想不到,除了上述把湖邊的椅子搬開變營地,我們還曾在未蓋好的別墅後院附近緊急紮營,在充滿尖石旁的草原紮營…等。假如不是這樣長天數在山上流浪,大概很難體驗跳到河裡或湖裡洗澡的美好(即使水很冷),也讓偶而在山屋享用餐點時的滿足感倍增,此外,日出日落、山嵐、星空等也是天天在戶外紮營的我們常捕抓的大景,當然走在雨中、冰雪上或選到不是很平的營地,當下也許多少有不舒適,但如今回憶起,能真實體驗大自然的各種層面,也是一種幸福!

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Sometimes I thought it was great to stay in the cozy cabin and enjoyed the served meal and hot bath. However, it charged at least 50 Euro for a night. It’s impossible for us to afford for several nights. In fact, most of our camp site locations were better than cabins and sometimes unexpected. For example, we have ever camped in a grass ground near many sharp stones. We also just camped near the back yard of an unfinished villa. If we hadn’t travelled continuously such a long period, we would not feel satisfied when taking bath in the cold lake. On the other hand, we often capture the great scenery of sunrise, sunset and stars from our tent. Although it’s somewhat uncomfortable while walking in the rain or on the slippery ice or sleeping on the uneven camp ground, I think it’s good to experience different aspects of nature.

與動物野莓相遇 Encounter animals and wild fruits
阿爾卑斯山上夏天可看到不少動物,除了野生的鹿、山羊,為數最多的就是畜養的牛和綿羊。畜養的牛和羊身上會掛鈴噹,因此畜養區附近總是鈴聲盪漾。牛羊的活動為山帶來生氣,有時牠們入鏡的山景更顯活潑,但當牛正好擋在路徑上,得從牠身邊經過時仍不免緊張,還有當牛聞到你正享用的午餐,好奇地走過來,不免趕緊打包走人;當紮營地離牧區不遠,那麼你將有整晚的鈴聲陪伴…不過,拜這些牛、羊所賜,在山上牧場總是能買到很新鮮又比超市便宜的各式起司,我真正愛上起司就是因為在阿爾卑斯健行時享用了不少。

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It’s common to encounter animals in Alps area. Although we had ever met wild deer and goat, cattle and sheep with bell were most popular. Sometimes I think it’s great to have them in my photos. However, when I had to across the cattle which were just on the path, I still felt nervous. One time, the cows came to us because of the smell of our lunch, so we had to move. We would choose the camp site far away from the cattle, otherwise their bells would ring all night. However, thanks to these cattle, we often bought fresh Cheese in the chalet while hiking. I fell in love with French cheese from that time.

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夏天的法國山區野莓盛產,此行我們常邊走邊採黑莓、蔓越莓或藍莓吃,也常看到人拿著專門的採集工具大量採藍莓,也曾遇到上山採野菇的夫妻。有次踢柏油路前往登山口,路邊李子樹落果眾多,雖然果子比超市賣得小,但更有自然的酸甜,我們除了當下現吃還各撿一大袋當行動糧,讓我想到在希臘時也曾採路邊野生的綠葡萄當點心。這些水果在亞熱帶的台灣少見而貴,當下卻能大塊朵頤,真是痛快!

BlackberryOnTheWay

Summer is the season of fruit. We often gathered blackberry, cranberry, or blueberry if we noticed them on the trail. Some residents would use tools for large collection. We also met a couple who collected some fresh mushrooms. Although the fruit size was not as large as the selling one in supermarket, I enjoyed its fresh sour natural taste. Another unforgettable memory was picking plums on the ground in a hot day. These fruits are quite expensive in my country, so eating free fresh ones is special for me.

一暏歐洲最高峰風采 Viewing European highest peak Mt. Blanc
小強曾走過白朗山的「陽台」健行路線(GR TMB),天氣好走在陽台上可以清楚看到白朗山佇立在眼前,那也是此行觀光客最多的山徑。白朗山山頭終年積雪,附近還有幾個冰河,第一次看到的確覺得蠻酷的。但其實不一定要在「陽台」上才能目暏它的風采,後來我們在Aravis山區及其他附近的山也都欣賞的到白朗峰,雖然不如陽台那麼近,但不同角度不同美感。但我覺得沒去過陽台的人還是值得去走走,在白湖山屋邊看白朗山邊享用法國熱紅酒,也是此行難忘的回憶。

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Jon highly recommended GR de Pays Tour du Pays de Mont Blanc (GR TMB), for if the weather is fine the European highest peak will seem like in front of you. I’ve viewed Mt. Blanc from north Italy and other area like Aravis, it’s still great to observe the peak more closely from this trail. I especially recommend staying in Le Refuge du Lac Blanc for a while. We enjoy the good view of Mt. Blanc with the served hot red wine and cheese omelet.

Le Refuge du Lac Blanc

法國與台灣高山健行的差異Differences between hiking in France and Taiwan
法國健行最吸引我的是地景多變、環境乾淨,優美的草坡及湖泊不勝枚舉,但缺點是山區開發早,漂亮的山夏天觀光客很多,此外滑雪場、纜車不少,通常滑雪場附近的山就是光禿一片,很難談得上自然美。台灣的高山環境比較單純,絕大部分為真正願意背起大背包、付上代價的登山者才能親近。假如你意願(及本事),一峰接一峰連續縱走不成問題。 假如有機會,我會想再訪法國的山(及造訪其他國度的山),當然台灣的山對我而言更是爬不膩,也希望更多外國友人能來體驗在台灣健行的美好!

me and glacier

Hiking in France attracted me most in two aspects. First, I can experience various landscapes in a short period; there are countless lakes, grasslands, glacier, etc. It’s impossible to see any snow in summer in Taiwan. Second, the outdoor environment is very clean. I seldom see any trash on the trail and most lakes are so clear. However, most mountain areas have been well developed; it is somewhat crowded with tourists in summer. Besides, ski field and ski lift were quite common in some area and inevitably affected natural scenery. On the other hand, high mountain area in Taiwan is more undeveloped. Most is only reachable by heavy backpackers, and it’s possible to hike on the continuous ridge for a long period without going down to the village.I’m quite looking forward to visit France again for the beautiful mountains or experience hiking in another culture context. I also hope more Outdoor sports enthusiasts visit my country to enjoy hiking.

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