紫娟的心靈探險

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紫色奇幻之冒險體驗筆記
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一個人的泰北之Mae Lana& Mae Hong Son (Wandering by myself in Mae Lana& Mae Hong Son)

住進300baht一晚的小木屋,第一晚覺得好寂寥,因為手機不通,鎮上也沒小吃店(當時還沒注意到有一家可口的麵店),又捨不得花100baht吃民宿套餐,入夜後就只有雨聲陪伴,突然很想念在Pai子晏家好吃的白飯及小兒子的吵鬧聲--我常在離開後才能看清擁有時的幸福。 隔天早上雨停了,前往Mae Lana Cave,根本不想找Cave guide因為之前造訪過Phra that cave,guide只是在前面點燈,然後在一些地方停下來讓人拍照。我帶著頭燈,心想能造訪就逛逛,無法進洞也沒關係。一開始遇見兩隻牛一起走一段,後來就完全沒人沒房子,只有上上下下的濕滑陡坡。找到Mae Lana Cave入口但水很大,我拍張紀念照就折返(後來guest house老闆娘說雨季本來就沒辦法進入Mae Lana Cave)。
Although the 300B bungalow was very comfy, I felt quite bored in the first night. There is no night life at all in this small town and it was so quiet, so I quite missed my Pai host family, including the noises from their little son. Next morning, the heavy rain stopped gradually and I headed to Mae Lana Cave by myself. In the beginning, there were two cows on the road, but finally there was nothing but trees along the road. I found the entrance of Mae Lana Cave, but the stream was so strong that I dared not move further. After I went back, the guest house owner told me it’s impossible to visit Mae Lana Cave inside in rainy season. However, I didn’t feel sad about it because I’ve already visited a great Cave in June.

下午走上往Lahu tribes的路,邊走邊欣賞沿途剛插秧的稻田美景,一台下行的機車騎士停下來用泰語和我交談,我注意到他的眼睛很大很迷人然後示意要往上走,於是當他折返往上騎時,我就答應搭他的車。雖然他完全聽不懂英文正如我聽不懂泰語,但我看懂他邀請我到家裡吃飯。昨天傍晚為部落竹屋拍照時曾閃過「假如能進去看看好多好」的念頭,沒想到將在此刻實現。 竹屋內有一位女性在火堆旁炊煮,其他都是男性,載我的少年拿出剛買的beer和炸豬皮,一行人開始喝起來。語言不通,我無法理解他們說什麼,只能從他們的努力傳達的肢體動作意會他們的善意。少年不斷和我敬酒,另一位阿伯播放手機中的古謠傳唱。我能做的只有微笑,還有和他們分享相機中不多的照片。午餐是白飯和燉魚,少年總是幫我夾菜;魚骨頭只需從竹地板縫往下丟,狗就在下面接食。酒量不佳的我開始想吐,於是少年載我回guest house。記得那時雨下得很大,路很陡很滑,他騎車的技術很好,到了民宿,少年沒有多要求什麼,只有一個擁抱再見。我在吐完後熟睡了二小時,夜裡很難入眠,他的眼神不斷出現在腦海…。其實路途中有另一位阿伯邀我去他家坐坐,因為他是阿伯,所以我沒有答應。假如我看起來像阿姨,Lahu少年是否還會熱情地邀約?
When I walked near a Lahu village at noon, a young motor bike rider stopped and chatted with me in Thai. Although I didn’t understand him, I noticed he has big eyes in the first sight and showed him I wanted to go up. After a while, he passed me again with some beers and invited me to have lunch together. I accepted for I was curious about the inside of traditional Lahu house. There was a woman cooked beside the fire in the bamboo house while two men were chatting nearby. They quite welcomed me and tried their best to communicate in body language. One man even shared some traditional songs from his cell phone. All I could do was keep smiling, shared photos in my camera, and drank beers with them. Although the lunch was just rice and stewed fish, I still quite appreciated the woman for taking a long time preparing and the young Lahu always picked the fish for me. He also showed me just to put the bones through seams of bamboo floor for the dogs would catch under it. After lunch, I got drunk and asked the young Lahu to ride me back. It rained heavily but he seemed quite skilled to ride on the steep dirt roads in the village. He didn’t ask me anything but only a hug before leaving. I fell asleep after back because of those beers and stayed up until midnight for the shinny eyes of young Lahu often came up to my mind. Few days later, another local man invited me to his place, but I didn’t accept for he was middle-aged. At that time, I thought if I was an old lady, will that young Lahu still invite me to his place?
我決定隔天一早就離開Mae Lana,因為雨下不停,我想在山下雨天可以逛的地方選擇較多。臨行前再次和載我上來的Korn老師聊天,在語言不通的地方有人能用英文交談就很開心,我和他分享昨天的經歷,他和我分享他的工作,還帶我去認識home stay,給我一些清邁的資訊,最後還載我下山。 在Soppong等車時,再去找機車行老闆,和他分享我的Mae Lana,也問他Mae Hong Son旅遊資訊,他說當地人去省會都是去辦事的,而且從小在泰國山裡長大,很懶得再往山裡跑,再往廟裡看,不過在山丘上的廟Wat Pratat Doi Kong Moo展望不錯。於是在Mae Hong Son的一天半,我上那座廟3次,在晴朗的午後,在夜裡,還有傍晚看夕陽。
I left Mae Lana next morning since the rain seemed endless. I thought there should be more places, like temples or stores to visit near Mae Hong Son. Before leaving, I visited Korn again and chatted with him in English happily, for no one could speak English like him there. I shared what I experienced yesterday and he shared more details about his work. I told him that I would like to try home stay next time and he immediately brought me to meet a home stay owner. Korn also gave me information about Chiang Mei, the last destination of my north Thai trip and he finally gave me another free ride to Soppong bus station. Before the bus coming, I also visited the owner of motor bike shop again. He was quite willing to chat with me in Chinese. I asked his favorite site in Mae Hong Son. He said there was nothing special for locals like him, but the view from Wat Pratat Doi Kong Moo, a famous temple on the hill, is great. As a result, I visited that temple three times during my one and half day stay in Mae Hong Son and encountered wonderful sunset and a rainbow there.
想租單車,但找/問不到單車出租店,隔天早上只好租機車從Mae Hong Son向南探索。機車行及民宿老闆娘都有提到附近的長頸族Karen村,比較近的那個要騎機車涉水,於是我造訪比較遠的Nam Piang Din。當船夫駕船過來索價200B渡河時我並不驚訝,因為耳聞比較近的那個村要價250B,但走在村落中愈覺得這樣索價不合理,因為部落並沒有很特別的建築,帶著長頸飾環的婦女少之又少,家家戶戶都在賣手工編織,那編織方式和台灣原住民類似,只是在台灣手工織品不便宜,在此一條手工圍巾才100B、衣服也才250 B,於是我買了紀念品,在回程時和船夫殺價渡河費。
I have never thought about renting a motor bike for I preferred slow travel by walk or cycling. However, I could not find any bike rental shop in Mae Hong Son, so I had no other choice but to rent a motor bike. I visited a Long-necked Karen village called Nam Piang Din first. The village is in the opposite site to a big river. A boatman came and charged me 200 B for the boat and entry fee. Although it’s somewhat expensive, I am not surprised because I have heard other Karen village entry fee is 250 B. I walked around the small village and found nothing special except a clean beautiful stream. Just very few women still wore heavy brass coils around their necks, but many of them sewing and selling handmade scarves. Finally, I bought two souvenirs and successfully bargained with the boatman for the 200 B entry fee.

前往Pha Bong hot spring,露天不收費,但泉溫太高無法泡,附近逛逛遇見此行在泰國我覺得最美的一間廟,金色的緬甸式塔在陽光下特別耀眼。後來找些小路欣賞Mae Hong Son的田園景色,只要遇到泥土路我就停車下來步行,因此遇見竹編的路橋還有木頭打造的小船。Mae Hong Son的自然風光明媚,假如有單車騎,我會想多待幾天,不過這次住的湖邊民宿雖然便宜,但隔音很差,晚上從窗外傳來的吵嘈聲一直要到10點多才停,讓我隔外想念Mae Lana的單純寧靜,於是我放棄前往清邁,再次回到Mae Lana。雖然我知道再回去時Korn不會在(他提過),也不太可能再遇見那位Lahu少年,但能一個人在附近山區走走也好!
My next stop was Pha Bong for it is famous for hot spring. It’s free but the temperature was too high that I could only just dip my feet into it for few minutes. I went around the village and found a temple with tranquil atmosphere and a golden pagoda. After that, I rode along some small country roads. When the road became dirt road, I got off my motor bike and walked. I like the field scenery in Mae Hong Son even more than Pai. If I had a bike, I would stay longer. Another reason for just two night stay was I chose a “wrong” guest house. Noises from outside lasted every night until almost eleven. That caused me to miss tranquil Mae Lana seriously. Although I knew when I came back again, Korn would not be there for the weekend and it’s also impossible to meet the young Lahu again, I still changed my Chiang Mei visit to Mae Lana.
再次攔便車上Mae Lana,本來想試看看home stay,但主人聽我不需要cave guide而不收,於是前往同一間民宿住同一間房,這次天氣晴朗一掃上次的悶濕,清晨從民宿就能望見美好的山嵐,當我再次走在往Lahu村的山路,看到許多上次在雨天所不見的山巒。逛到Ya Pa Nae正值放學時間,小朋友看到外來的我很新奇,有些大聲地說hello,當時我卻莫名地害羞,回去後很後悔沒有大方地找他們拍照。隔天我走訪更遠的Lahu部落,走到叉路不知是哪一條時,正好有機車經過,好心的騎士告訴我方向並相載一段。更遠的Huay Haeng部落並沒有很特殊,但步行時我撿到好幾個美麗的鴨腱藤紅色種子,涼亭休息時發現美麗的蜘蛛和蛾,在回程的路上遇見野生母豬覓食散步等,似乎這些遇見讓其他沒遇見的時刻值得,或說沒遇見是在蘊釀。
I originally wanted to try home stay in my second time visit, but the host didn’t accept because I said I don’t need a cave guide. Therefore, I stayed in the same guest house in the same room. The weather was much better and I could see thin clouds around mountains from my window. I visited more Lahu villages and sometimes picked up by kind motor riders, but most of time I walked by myself during the day. I met many natural friends along the road, like large red round seeds, beautiful plants and insects, and even some strolling wild pigs. It seems that these encounters make other just walking time worthwhile.
在Mae Lana的最後一晚和民宿老闆娘閒聊,她說她看見上次載我回來的Lahu少年。於是我決定隔天離開前再訪他可能所在的部落Par Ja Reaun,想送他小禮物並說再見。到了部落,我找不到那間房子,鼓起勇氣拿當天的留念照向當地人詢問也得不到答案。其實我本來就知道不太可能找到他,即使找到再說一次再見也沒什麼意義,這趟路程是讓我自己對那雙眼神的迷戀放下。旅行常在短時間內經歷悲歡離合,得不斷學習放下… My last night in Mae Lana, the guest house owner told me she saw the young Lahu who rode me back again, so I decided to visit his village before leaving. However, even I showed his picture in my camera to a local, I still could not find him. During my way back, I thought it’s nothing much to say goodbye again, for we have already had wonderful goodbye in the rain. This revisit was just for me to give up the craving of his attractive eyes.

More photos...in Mae Lana & Mae Hong Son
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