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2015尼泊爾獨自健行(一)Nepal solo trekking part1-from Shivalaya to Lukla

早就久聞Nepal是健行者的天堂,境內除了有世界第一高峰Mt Everest,還有名山Annapurna等,健行路線選擇很多,但寒假是山上最冷雪最多的時候,光看Lonely Planet的介紹似乎只有中低海拔的小路線適合獨行,去過Nepal的國內外朋友也都有請當地嚮導。然而我很確定第一次造訪新的國家我不想帶朋友同行,但也不想支付一天至少15美金的嚮導費,就在此刻透過朋友介紹認識剛從Nepal回國的Jade,他在Nepal都是用花費最少的方式獨自健行。經過幾小時詳細的介紹,我就決定了要從Shivalaya一路走到Lukla(絕大部分的人會付160多元美金直接搭飛機到Lukla),再前往有美麗湖泊及展望絕佳的Gokyo,從海拔5357公尺的Gokyo Ri望Mt Everest。
I’ve heard that Nepal is trekkers’ heaven long time ago. It has the highest peak, Mt Everest and some other famous high mountains, like Mt. Annapurna, etc. There are so many trekking trails that it’s hard to decide which to take, for I want to find one which is suitable for solo trekking in snow winter time. However, the guide book Lonely Planet said trekking alone in high altitude area is somewhat dangerous and all my friends who have visited Nepal mountain area paid for local guides. At that time, I met a new friend, Jade, who has just backed from Nepal. He visited all trekking routes by himself for saving cost. After he shared his trekking experience for several hours, I decided to walk from Shivalaya to Lukla instead of flying in as most trekkers and then take the Gokyo trail to enjoy the lake scenery and watch Mt Everest from Gokyo Ri, 5357m. Lonely Planet並不推薦Shivalaya到Lukla這段5-6天的步行,因為上下起伏很大,但我想當作進入高山前的體能訓練,且Jade說沿途村落很多且較不觀光化,比較有機會貼近當地生活。回想起來,從Shivalay起行的前4天的確辛苦,雖說不用背食物在村落就買得到,但前幾天常吃不習慣,即使很累很餓,有吃了Dhal Bhat飯就吐的,也有味道奇怪到令我無法吃多的咖哩飯,就連泡麵也曾吃了就肚子痛。因此,大多時候我走得很慢,不過又想達到Jade建議的每天目的地,所以下午常在趕路,甚至有一次摸黑才到。

Lonely Planet didn’t recommend taking the Shivalaya route. It takes at least 5~6 days with a tiring process of dropping down one side of a steep valley and climbing up the other. However, I thought I would take the climbing up and down process as physical practice before entering high altitude area. Besides, Jade said this route was not so touristic and it’s more possible to observe the local life than after Lukla. I’m not so adapted in the beginning four days. Although I didn’t have to carry heavy food, sometimes the food served by lodges made me stomach ache. I was tired and hungry but couldn’t eat much because of the food taste. In that condition, I could only walk slowly but I still hoped to reach everyday schedule which was recommended by Jade.Therefore, I walked more than 8 hours a day and even walked with light in a dark forest one day. Shivalaya到Lukla本來就不是熱門路線,在雪季幾乎見不到其他遊客,有些路段連當地人也沒,因此我曾在路上遇見5隻野生小鹿,但那條路不寬又沒有其他人,一度讓我很迷惑是否走錯路。健行前幾天幾乎每天都有走錯路的時候,不小心走到村民家、衝過頭攻往不知名的山頂,雖然都沒有嚴重擔誤行程,但我學會在每個叉路觀察,有當地人必詢問確認。後來終於遇到村民,沒走錯路只是目的地需要下河谷過橋再上切,其實我已經很習慣日覆一日的下河谷再上切,只要方向正確,一切都好。

I’ve only seen two trekkers on the same way to Lukla. I even didn’t met any locals in some part of the trail instead I met some wild deer. I wondered whether I took the wrong route again for I made this kind of mistakes in the first few days. Sometimes I followed the route to locals’ houses and one time I climbed an unknown peak. Although these mistakes are not too serious to delay my trekking, I learned to observe more when I met a cross or ask locals to make sure the right direction. Finally, I met a local and she told me it’s the right way but my destination was on the opposite mountain. That means I have to climb down to cross the river and then climb up. However, I didn’t mind that since this process sometimes repeated over two times a day. For me, the only important thing is that the direction I take is correct. 從Shivalaya出發時,有當地人跟我說曾有國外獨行女生在路上被劫,因此一開始當我遇到當地人總是會保持界心,連小孩子也不例外,怕他們纏著要錢要糖。雖然要糖的小朋友是有,但不多也不會纏著不放。甚至有一個小女孩在我傍晚趕路時陪我走了好長一段,到路清楚的地方就自動折返。絕大部分的居民無法用英語溝通,但他們聽懂你的目的地時總會很熱心指路。

I’ve heard some miserable stories of solo trekkers, especially female ones. Some cases were robbed or raped while others were missing in the mountain. As a result, my attitude was more protected in the beginning, including to children. Even though some children indeed asked for money or candy, they didn’t follow me too far. Most locals I met were polite and helpful even they couldn’t communicate a lot in English. There was a little girl who accompanied me for a long way when I hurried to my destination before sunset. She just said goodbye when the way is quite clear and asked for nothing. I received a lot of helps about direction from locals while others just greeting and encouraging me friendly. Although I didn’t pay for a guide, they are all my guides. Shivalaya到Lukla的這五天的確見識到山上的當地生活,對遊客的我而言,這段路是前往高山觀光的準備,對當地人而言卻是生命的一部分,一路上我遇見各種年齡的當地人,從被背的嬰兒到被抬的老人,只要還健康能動,即使是老人、女人都能背重物在路上行走。他們在路上有可能獨行,但夜晚總會回到家,和家人一起升火煮飯、烤火。我很被家人們圍聚在火爐邊單純烤火聊天的氛圍吸引,因為山下的生活娛樂選擇很多,人和人幾乎不可能這樣單純地對望聊天那麼久…

I saw many kinds of locals on the trail. Infants were carried in baskets by adults; the sick were carried on stretchers by young men. All the healthy locals no matter age or gender could carry heavy things and walked in a regular pace. There were many solo walking locals on the trail, but at night they would gather with family around the fire for cooking and chatting. I was so attracted by this family oriented simple life style at that time and even wanted to build my own family after the trip. 在這段路上我曾有兩次特別美好的相遇,第一次是在Shivalaya,當巴士一停下來就有一位Nepal帥哥熱心為我介紹他們家的民宿,雖然看起來很簡陋,但又不好意思拒絕就住下來。沒想到他的Shivalaya Hilton竟成為我此行最想念的民宿,因為他煮的料理都好可口,晚上因為沒其他客人就請我喝茶一直聊到半夜。我曾經想再見到他而考慮走回Shivalaya,後來雖沒這麼做,但我很確定一定會再走訪此地。另一次是在Muse(Lukla附近的小鎮),因為腳程和一個馬夫差不多,常走在一起,他用微笑和僅會的一些英文單字想辦法和我聊天,後來在Monjo時他要停下吃午餐,他問我要不要一起,當時我因為一心想趕路而婉拒,後來就再也沒見到他了。但每當看到馬隊時,我都會注意看一下是不是那位馬夫。不過在山上或人生的路上就是這樣,錯過就是錯過了,只能向前走,把握下一次的相遇…

During the five days from Shivalaya to Lukla, two wonderful encounters happened. The first one happened in Shivalaya, after the 10-hour bus transportation from Kathmandu, a friendly Nepali came to me to introduce his family-run lodge. Although the room is quite small, I would not like to reject his hospitality. In the end his lodge is the one I miss most for he is good at cooking and able to speak very fluent English. Besides, he treated me free hot tea and chatting with me until midnight. I’ve thought walking back to Shivalaya after finishing Gokyo trail for I really hoped to share my journey with him. Although I didn’t do that finally, if I visit Shivalaya again, I will still stay in his lodge. The second one happened in Muse, a small town near Lukla. I encountered a horse team and the leader smiled to me first and tried his best to chat with me in English. He stopped in Monjo for lunch break and would like to treat me. I said I have to do my best to reach my destination, Namche since I didn’t want to rest late as before. After that, when I saw a horse team passing, I would notice the leader, but I didn’t meet him anymore. Sometimes I regretted that I didn’t accept his kindness, but no matter in the mountain or life, there is nothing to do with what I have lost, the only thing I can do is step forward and treasure the next encounter.
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