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2015尼泊爾獨自健行(二)Nepal solo trekking part2-from Namche to Gokyo

Lonely Planet建議要在Namche多待一天適應高度,但我感覺從Shivalaya一路走來我已經非常適應在高山行走,幾乎可以和當地人一樣,保持規律的行進而不用常休息,唯一要小心的就是在冰雪上行走,因為好久沒在雪地健行了,而我曾在冰上滑倒過,知道其嚴重性。在接近Dole, 4110m時我看到山坡上有人,於是向他詢問路況,他要我在下面等他,結果下來的是位比我矮小的女子,身上卻背了近20公斤剛砍下來的柴,她說她在Dole經營餐廳,邀請我今晚落腳她的店。我對她很好奇於是就答應,她說她10多歲就開始在山區的餐廳到處打工,直到快30歲存夠了錢才租下一間自己經營。由於她單身,所以坎柴、背水都自己來,登山旺季才會請人幫忙。我問她想不想結婚,她說有開始思考這問題,但經營這間餐廳就夠她忙的,不時還要走下去Namche背物資上來。高山的冬天只要太陽一不見踨影就非常冷,我問她一個人在山上會不會無聊,她卻回答在目前的餐廳is a good money. 從她身上我感覺到十足的活力與滿足,一個人女人假如沒有家庭有自己的事業也是不錯的選擇!
Although Lonely Planet highly recommended trekkers staying one more day in Namche for preventing altitude sickness-AMS, I felt I was as strong as locals after walking from Shivalaya until now. I could walk in a good regular pace without rest often. The next day I headed to Dole, 4110m directly. When I walked in the snow forest, I saw someone on the upper slope. I wanted to check the direction so I waited for a while. Finally, a woman who is slimmer and shorter than me climbed down with lots of woods she just cut. She owned a restaurant in Dole and invited me to go with her. I was curious about her so I accepted immediately. She said she started to work in different restaurants when she was 14 yrs old and saved enough budget to rent one until almost 30 yrs old. She was still single so she has to do all the works by herself, including collecting woods, carrying water or stuffs. She would only pay for helpers during the high touristic season around Oct. to November. I wondered whether she would feel bored in Dole since there was no internet and after sunset it’s very cold at night. However, she seemed very satisfied to have her own business. She said she thought about how to make it better more than getting married or not. For me, she is a good example of satisfying by running business instead of building a family.
多數人在Dole之後會在Machherma,4470m落腳,但我走到Machherma才不到12點,面對四周都是冰雪的Machherma整個下午要做什麼呢? 於是乾脆一路走到Gokyo,4790. 雖然一開始我對大山大雪的景像很興奮,但很快就感覺單調。在Lukla之前的路上能遇到很多當地人,但在Namche之後絕大部分的時候,只有冰冷的雪和孤單的自己,因此想起一些曾陪我走過一些山路或人生路卻不再有聯絡的人…
After Dole most trekkers will stop at Machherma,4470m. Nevertheless, when I arrived there, it’s still not noon. Facing the ice around, how could I spend the hole afternoon in Machherma? I decided to keep walking to Gokyo,4790. Although I was excited about seeing magnificent snow mountains in the beginning, I started to feel bored after few days. I met many locals before Lukla, but after Namche there was only me on the snow roads most of the time. Sometimes it let me miss friends who has accompanied me before, especially the ones I didn’t contact anymore.
Gokyo投宿是此行唯一和其他健行者同住在一個屋簷下。一個歐洲中年小姐帶著嚮導和挑夫,明天早上準備前往Gokyo Ri, 5357m. 旅舍經營者告訴我他們出發的時間,建議我可以跟在他們後面上去。我不好意思這麼做,畢竟她是有付費的,於是隔天早上我刻意晚他們半個小時出發,沒想到非常快就趕上他們,他們走得很慢且要一直休息,於是我決定自己找路登頂。因為前一晚下雪,路跡不是很清楚,反正我就儘量找好走的地方往上切,看到疊石路標就儘量跟。這算是我第一次在雪地當先鋒找路,當我看到山頂的五彩經襎時,心中浮現一句話:「這麼有毅力和行動力的人不應該一事無成…」。約40分鐘後他們上來了,我和嚮導確認哪座是Mt Everest, 8850m,並和它合影才下山。從Gokyo Ri望去的Mt Everest只是一座黑黑的山頭,並非如想像中的雪白,下回再從不同的展望點欣賞她!That was my first time stayed in the same lodge with aother trekker in Gokyo. There was a female trekker from Europe with her paid guide and porter. They planned to climb Gokyo Ri, 5357m next morning. The lodge owner told me their departure time and suggested me to follow them. I dared not do that since I didn’t pay for the guide, so I headed out half an hour later. I passed them after a while since they stopped often. The mountain was full of snow and the road was not very clear. It’s also my first time to be a pioneer in this situation. I just tried to walk on the place which has less snow and followed the direction of small stone towers. I was so excited when I saw the colorful flags on the top of Goyko Ri for it’s not a very easy goal but I got it. The weather was nice and I enjoyed the good views. After 40 minutes, they came up and I checked the Mt Everest with the guide and took some pictures of it. Mt Everest was only a black peak instead of a white snow peak as I imagined from Goyko Ri. I think I will climb another peak to see her from different view one day. 當初選擇Gokyo路線的原因之一是想看美麗的高山湖,但冬天的大雪讓我無緣目睹之,推薦這路線的朋友則是登上Gokyo Ri時總是起霧展望不佳,也許這就是Gokyo招換我們再次前往的方式吧! Gokyo民宿主人推薦我回程繞到TengBoche因為那裡有壯闊的山景及一間寺廟。前往TengBoche那天正午就轉為陰天,下午在爬上TengBoche的森林中就下起大雪,我能做的只有加快腳步,趕在全身濕透前抵達TengBoche.高山氣候變化很快,前一天也是不到下午3:00陽光就很微弱且一直刮冷風,走得很辛苦,乾脆提早落腳休息。One reason I chose Gokyo trail is that there are some beautiful lakes near. However, the snow covered all the lakes. Instead, the friend who recommended this trail said it’s always foggy when he climbed up Gokyo Ri. Maybe that’s the way Gokyo attracted us to revisit. Gokyo lodge owner highly recommended TengBoche, for there was a big monastery with beautiful mountain views. When I climbed the forest before TengBoche, it started to snow heavily. The only thing I could do was to speed up my steps and reach there as soon as possible. The weather changed fast in the high mountain. Before that day, the sunlight became very faint and started to blow chilly wind just around 3 p.m., so I decided to find a stay instead of keep walking. One guide has told me that it’s no problem to walk alone with good weather and healthy condition. When the weather is changed, you should be more careful.在山上待了10多天,難免會想念山下便宜好吃的食物、能盡情地把衣服都洗乾淨等,在Lukla付了163美金的機票後,滿心期待隔天一早就能回到文明世界。結果竟然在機場等了4個小時後,才公布加德滿都天候不佳飛機無法起飛。留在Lukla隨意逛逛竟然又走到我很喜歡的小鎮Muse, 這次不用趕路才有閒情留下許多自拍照。During this two-week solo trekking, I sometimes quite desired the delicious cheap food and to wash all my clothes clean. After paying 163 USD for the 30 minutes fly from Lukla to Kathmandu, I desired to come back to the convenient world more eagerly. However, passengers waited in the airport for almost 4 hours and then be told there would be no flight that day because of the weather. I wandered around Lukla and visited Muse, the small town I like very much again. Instead of hurrying to Namche last time, I took my time and had lots of photos with it.回到加德滿都不久我又懷念在山上的日子,每天只要走路、顧及生活基本所需,快樂的來源是自己對目標的達成度。在都市中因為無聊所以慾望很多,而慾求的失落就成為痛苦的來源。因此我非常確定即使無法生活在山上,待在較自然單純的鄉間是不變的抉擇。
After few days staying in Kathmandu, I started to miss the days in the mountain. I even had dreams of still walking on the trail at night. When I go trekking, the only thing I have to take care is to keep good condition and reach the clear destination. The fulfillment comes from the achievement of the goal I set. On the other hand, I have lots of desires in the city and easily get unsatisfied since many factors I couldn’t control. For example, I went out happily to buy souvenirs, but after buying I found something was overcharged, so I had to go to the store again to bargain and didn’t feel so excited any more. As a result, I’m quite sure even I can’t live in the mountain as Sherpa, I would like to still stay in the countryside to live a simple life.
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